Day 3: Moses Rock to Gracetown 13kms

Only 13km, 189m up, 227m down, so it looks easy, but the Track rises high over several large limestone headlands before flattening out on Willyabrup Beach.

The dense coastal heath on this western slope are clipped by the wind and weather. It looked good today but I would like to see it in spring when it erupts in a sea of colour, and carpets of wildflowers from yellow through to pink and purple. Even so, I loved the masses of pink pimelea, bright buttercups and shark’s tooth acacia, with its jagged leaves softened by cheerful yellow pom pom-like flowers. Wildflowers like blue fan-flowers, white beard-heaths and red cockies’ tongues, were interspersed with woody species such as the Rottnest tea-tree, peppermint trees.

We had to do the entire day as there are no tracks out over this section. An interesting staircase then guided us up onto the stunning sea cliff buttresses of Wilyabrup Cliffs, used by rock climbers. A great photo op is looking back from the stair at the beach and the red granite cliff across the creek.

After passing the cliffs, the Track dropped back down onto the beach, passing the famous, severe, surfing breaks of Gallows and Guillotines. The coast then becomes very rocky as it ducks and weaves over picturesque granite boulders and finally into the hamlet of Gracetown on the large sheltered bay.

We relaxed here while three enjoyed (?) an afternoon swim to sooth the muscles. This was followed by a wine tasting at Cape Grace Winery, accompanied by a local cheese and antipasto grazing platter, before returning to our accommodation for a pasta evening meal individually packed for us to microwave.

The low scrub (fynbos) is lovely – most are flowering still, and the leaves are variations of green and grey, interspersed with Rottnest tee-tree patches and thin creeks. The boulder, rocky places on the beach are slow to cross, but most were fairly easy and the beach flat. This may be my favourite section.

The next four days are all over 20km, so Peigi and I have opted for short days, and very little on the last day. I find the uphill difficult, and Peigi’s knee is painful going down. Between us we make one good person.

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